Car talk? Free Repair Advice from an Expert?

pacamom wrote: Was this because it was hard to get to the engine? This car was my most favorite no power car to autocross. Totally stuck like glue in the corners.

gmule wrote: My worst all time pia vehicle to repair was a 1991 Toyota MR2. While it was tough as originally built the previous owner really complicated things.

At some point in this cars life someone took a NA engine out and installed a Japanese grey market turbo engine in it. None of the needed parts were available in the US market so all parts had to be ordered and shipped from all over the globe. Even the timing belts were different. One extra tooth on a timing belt will mess with you in a big way because with every revolution of the engine with the starter will spread the timing out. I was lucky that this was a non interference engine or I would have been back to square one on head and valve work.

gmule wrote:

pacamom wrote: Was this because it was hard to get to the engine? This car was my most favorite no power car to autocross. Totally stuck like glue in the corners.

gmule wrote: My worst all time pia vehicle to repair was a 1991 Toyota MR2. While it was tough as originally built the previous owner really complicated things.

At some point in this cars life someone took a NA engine out and installed a Japanese grey market turbo engine in it. None of the needed parts were available in the US market so all parts had to be ordered and shipped from all over the globe. Even the timing belts were different. One extra tooth on a timing belt will mess with you in a big way because with every revolution of the engine with the starter will spread the timing out. I was lucky that this was a non interference engine or I would have been back to square one on head and valve work.

When I had my car lot I bought those MR2's any time I could find one, easy to sell and fun to drive when I had one. I raced a turbo model a couple times when SCCA was using the old Stapleton runways, handled like a go-cart and did very well.

My little brother's wife has a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe and it's time to flush the power steering system. I read the service manual and Hyundai insists that the only fluid that you can use to accomplish this is their brand that you have to buy from Hyundai and it comes with a "special" blue die in it so you know you have to genuine product. Oh did I happen to mention that it's also $18.00 a quart?

Last time I checked power steering fluid is pretty much the same thing no matter who makes it and even the highest quality stuff isn't normally $18.00 a quart. My years of formal training as a shade tree mechanic tell me Hyundai is trying to get one over on the Hyundai driving public. Is it even remotely possible that a Hyundai power steering pump is so different from any other power steering pump that Hyundai went to all the trouble and expense to develop and produce a special power steering fluid that is only compatible with their pumps? My guts say Hyundai is trying to run a scam, the tubes of the Interwebs offer every answer under the sun, but I don't want to flush the pump with normal power steering fluid and then find out I just bought my sister in law a new power steering pump.

otisptoadwater wrote: My little brother's wife has a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe and it's time to flush the power steering system. I read the service manual and Hyundai insists that the only fluid that you can use to accomplish this is their brand that you have to buy from Hyundai and it comes with a "special" blue die in it so you know you have to genuine product. Oh did I happen to mention that it's also $18.00 a quart?

Last time I checked power steering fluid is pretty much the same thing no matter who makes it and even the highest quality stuff isn't normally $18.00 a quart. My years of formal training as a shade tree mechanic tell me Hyundai is trying to get one over on the Hyundai driving public. Is it even remotely possible that a Hyundai power steering pump is so different from any other power steering pump that Hyundai went to all the trouble and expense to develop and produce a special power steering fluid that is only compatible with their pumps? My guts say Hyundai is trying to run a scam, the tubes of the Interwebs offer every answer under the sun, but I don't want to flush the pump with normal power steering fluid and then find out I just bought my sister in law a new power steering pump.

Honda, Toyota, Volkswagen and many other manufactures have their own special blends of power steering fluid as well their own blends of coolant. I recommend following what the manufacture uses because most likely their fluid is synthetic and has different additives that the other brands don't have. I am not sure of how you plan on changing the fluid but you may not be able to remove all of the old fluid out of the system and the different fluids may not be compatible with the Hyundai fluid which is what may cause the problem. Kind of like mixing dot 3 and dot 5 brake fluid because dot 3 is glycol based and dot 5 is silicone based which could gel giving you very poor braking performance.

I agree with you both... I believe car manufacturers have their own "special" fluids as to generate decades of income beyond the sale of the car. You won't find the special Hyundai fluid at Autozone because you are more likely to service the car yourself.

On the other hand, there are big differences in PS fluid because of the type of seals and mechanical clearances in the steering gears and pumps, as well as different hose material. Most cars can use an atf type fluid while others must use a mineral oil base. My guess is that Hyundai probably uses a blue dyed mineral oil which is probably the same stuff VW and Audi require that is dyed green.

The fact is, you can put any fluid in any car and the power steering will operate normally, but if don't use the right stuff, you are just rolling the dice and may develop leaks or worse.

Fluids are confusing. SO many types, and synthetic vs old-style.

Some of the OEM parts dealers will print out a list for your car if you give them a VIN number. GM parts guy did that for me one time for my truck. Turns out I used the wrong stuff for my 4WD transfer case, and had to buy the fancy blue GM stuff for $9/quart and change it all. Ughhhhhhh SOBs!

LOL wrote: Fluids are confusing. SO many types, and synthetic vs old-style.

Some of the OEM parts dealers will print out a list for your car if you give them a VIN number. GM parts guy did that for me one time for my truck. Turns out I used the wrong stuff for my 4WD transfer case, and had to buy the fancy blue GM stuff for $9/quart and change it all. Ughhhhhhh SOBs!

Years ago I discovered GM's syncromesh manual transmission fluid actually helps prevent gear grinding on some cars with bad syncos (even non-GM cars)... I don't believe in many "fix-in-a-can" treatments but that one has worked from time to time. But as usual, it comes with a stupid price.

Dear Mr. Mechanic,

About a month ago I replaced my passenger side headlight. Tonite my driver side headlight is out.

Should I get a new car, or just drive during the day?

signed Confused and Fed up, and in the dark.


P.S. why isn't there a headlight is wearing out warning indicator, or an Obamaheadlightcare subsidy?

Thanks!

Assuming that both headlights are about the same age it's best to replace both of them when one burns out, hold on to the bulb that still works as an emergency spare. Why? I'd like to claim that I can prove that lamps burn at consistent rates and therefore two bulbs of the same age and manufacture should last about the same amount of time, I don't have time for all that - ask UL labs. I do remember as a little fellow asking my Dad and Grandpa why they would replace two bulbs when only one was burnt out to which I was given sage advice along the lines of "...you ask a lot of questions. If you must know the reason you replace them both is because that's the right way to do it.

Later in life I came to accept that advice and even found some solace in the knowledge that I would only have to figure out how to get to the bulbs in these newer cars a couple of time over the lifetime of the car if I just replaced them both at the same time. Another benefit would be that the lamps will give off equal amounts of light so you won't have a dim side if you replace both at the same time.

REMEMBER - if you're replacing halogen lamps DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE OF THE BULBS WITH YOUR BARE SKIN!!! That $15 a bulb extra fancy blue light lamp will burn out extra quick-fast if the oils from your skin get on the bulb. Wear gloves, nitrile or some other form of new latex based glove works best.



Edited to say sorry for stealing your thunder Rick!

Good advice!

Some years ago I had one headlight burn out on the way to work in the morning. I replaced it that afternoon. On the way home, the other one burned out!

At the very least, when one burns out, replace it ASAP!